Tanzania: The North East
Africa's 13th largest country by size and 5th largest by population. When I first visited the country in the year 2000, the population was 34 million. It's now more than double that. The top 20 countries with the world's fastest growing populations are all in Africa. Tanzania is at number 13. Most of this population growth occurs in urban areas, which is one reason I try to avoid big cities when I cycle in Africa, or elsewhere for that matter. The north east of Tanzania is relatively densely populated, but as vehicle ownership remains very low in Tanzania, roads are mostly quiet, at least the ones I try to take.
Tanzania again - Africa’s most visited of countries for me. I first came here long ago (24 years to be precise) while backpacking around east and southern Africa, then lived and taught English in the north of the country between 2013-2015. Before and since that time I’ve travelled, mostly by bicycle, around various corners of the country, but it’s big enough that there are plenty of roads and places that remain new.
Some places are also worth returning to. Travelling in Tanzania feels more familiar to me than any other African country, largely on account of the time I’ve spent here, but also that I can converse, or at least try to, in Kiswahili. While English is spoken, albeit far less so than in neighbouring Kenya or Uganda, Kiswahili is very much the dominant language, and one which Tanzanians are very proud of and happy to hear others speak. Jumping into conversation with strangers is always fun when I travel here. I suspect I will visit again.
The original plan was to divide my 3 months in east Africa between Kenya and Tanzania, but by the time I returned from northern Kenya to Nairobi and made it to the coast, I felt like a short rest. When I finally crossed into Tanzania I then had less than 5 weeks before my return flight from Nairobi.
I had wanted to travel as far west as Mwanza, where I used to live and still had friends, but travelling quickly in Africa always feels like going against the grain, so I decided I’d skip that return for a future visit, and focus just on the north-east, which was where I primarily wanted to cycle anyway.
The region is one I’ve cycled through before, but back in 2011 I relied on paper maps - unaware of the the various smaller tracks that exist. With a bike that is more suited for off-road terrain, these are more my focus nowadays, so I tried whenever possible to search for ways to avoid the main roads.
The Usambara and Pare mountains were principally my focus. Neither are particularly well known to people visiting Tanzania, cast into shadow by a much bigger and well-known mountain - Kilimanjaro. These days there are bike tours that can even take you to the peak, but I’ve largely distanced myself from organised tourism that involves having a guide of some sort, especially in places as popular and busy as Mount Kilimanjaro.
The rainy season is usually over by May, which is when I crossed into Tanzania. Weather wise, this and the following few months are perhaps the best time of the year to visit East Africa. The air is cooler and the vegetation lush and green. That said, I feel it can rain anytime in this part of Africa. There were a few rainy days on this tour, during which I cycled less.
I’ll let the photos tell the rest of the story. If you have any questions, feel free to throw them in the comments. And if you enjoyed this post and would like to show your appreciation by way of a virtual coffee (confession it might buy me a beer instead) I'll be very grateful.
This journey started in Nairobi, where I needed to transport my bicycle on the train to Mombasa. Officially bicycles aren't permitted, so I decided to take the wheels and handlebars off and transport it in a box. I wasn't 100% sure I would be allowed to transport the bike so just crossed my fingers.
There is no over-sized luggage or bicycle carriage on the train from Nairobi-Mombasa, so I waited for most other passengers to board first and hoped I would find a space.
Fortunately there were no issues. The train from Nairobi-Mombasa would not have any space to transport a bicycle without having its wheels removed and carried in some kind of case. Cycling from Nairobi to Mombasa wasn't an appealing option and I preferred to take the train rather than the bus. The train line cuts straight through Tsavo National Park, which has such a high population of elephants that unless you take the night train, it's more or less guaranteed you will see them from the carriage, which I did many times.
1500ksh (£9) buys you a ticket for the 6hr journey from Nairobi to Mombasa. A cheap way to see elephants in Kenya!
Mombasa's new railway station is a long way from Mombasa itself. I put the bicycle back together and rode into what is Kenya's second city - hot, humid and busy.
Catching up with an old friend in Mombasa. We lived in the same city in Tanzania between 2013-2015. He moved to Kenya thereafter to teach at an international school.
Back at the coast and it was mango season. The best food in Africa is the fresh fruit! I filled what space I had in my bags.
Check-in. I found a simple and quiet room close to the beach in the coastal town of Diani to spend a few days, before riding south to cross into Tanzania.
For £10 a night and walking distance to the beach I thought it was great value, so decided to stay a week in the end.
I've been to Diani before. It has a wonderful long white beach, which is relatively quiet out of the tourist season.
All I need. My last room in Kenya before crossing to Tanzania in the town of Lunga Lunga.
Another old face and friend. I first met Lelo when I cycled through Tanzania in 2011. We've kept in touch since. Better communication before meeting him on this day might have meant we cycled together, but he had his own plans which were to cross into Kenya on the road I had just come on. We met in the first small village in Tanzania.
Into Tanga, a sleepy backwater on the coast of north eastern Tanzania. It really hadn't felt like much had changed since I last visited here in 2011.
From Tanga I headed south along the coast to Pangani, which has another wonderful beach that very few people visit. The only coastal part of Tanzania that really sees any tourists is the island of Zanzibar, which I wasn't visiting this time.
Pangani, a short distance south from Tanga, is as sleepy as Tanzania gets. A few streets of colonial buildings remain as reminders of its colonial importance for Arabs, Germans and the British. Once an important stop for slave-trading caravans as well as the export of ivory, sugar and cobra, the small port on the river of the same name, still sees a steady traffic of traditional wooden dhows, bringing in goods from the nearby island of Pemba.
Pangani River opening to the Indian Ocean. The east coast of Africa, the swahili coast as it's better known here, is primarily inhabited by muslims, which is also a reminder of its history of trade with the Arabian peninsula.
Chicken soup for breakfast. It's a swahili thing along the coast - typically served with chapati, chilli and lime.
Chase the mzungu. School kids are a familiar sight riding through rural Tanzania.
Most of my accommodation in Tanzania was similar to Kenya. Simple, clean, quiet (hopefully) Guest Houses, where I could usually wheel my bicycle inside. Prices for a room vary from £3-6 per night mostly.
Guest Houses always have a register, where alongside the details of entering your name and nationality, you record your tribe.
Climbing into the Usambara mountains. Lush and green, this part of Tanzania typically records more rainfall than most other parts, making it one of the more fertile regions of the country. Most of the land here is cultivated with crops like tea (pictured) sisal and fruits, and the population density is higher.
Coffee stop. Despite growing lots of great coffee, Tanzania, like Kenya and the rest of east Africa (excluding Ethiopia) is a tea-drinking nation.
There are various tracks through the Usambara Mountains, which climb to around 2000m in elevation.
Great views from the edge of the Usambara Mountains.
An example of how green, fertile and cultivated the land is here.
Looking north back towards Kenya, a short distance away. I can never resist to stop and take a picture of my bike. I'll get round to writing a review of it soon.
Quiet tracks between the Usambara Mountains and Mkomazi National Park, which runs along the border with Kenya.
Bicycles are still a popular form of transport in much of rural Africa, which is always a pleasing sight. As is seeing girls use bicycles.
Wild camp time. I didn't camp as much as I would have liked to in northern Tanzania. The north east is densely populated and accommodation is plentiful and cheap. Camping out under the stars after a few weeks in the country was a reminder of how much I prefer being outside to sleep compared to inside a concrete block, assuming the weather is favourable.
Morning at camp. No rush to pack up in such a beautiful spot.
Carb load. Fresh chips and cold beer.
Familiar food and friendly prices. 3000tsh is about £1
Another great camp between the Pare Mountains and Lake Jipe.
Black cotton soil - the worst kind when wet. Fortunately this bike has a belt and not a chain, so there is no slipping over cogs when it gets covered in mud, nor any need to re-oil it once washed with water, which I did in a nearby river.
Heavy loads. I followed this guy on his single speed bicycle as he transported over 100kg of wood on a rough gravel road.
Accommodation in Moshi. Ended up staying 5 nights. This place if you're interested.
Kilimanjaro under a blue sky. A lot of the time Africa's tallest mountain is covered in clouds.
Giraffes at dusk. I was surprised to see so much wildlife on the route back to Kenya. I took some tracks through Masaai land and saw plenty of giraffe, zebra and gazelles. For me this is always the most exciting way to see Africa's wildlife, rather than paying hundreds of dollars to sit in a vehicle and be driven inside a park.
Capped off with a wonderful camp under a starlit sky. My last night in Tanzania with the distant sound of hyenas in the bush.
And a magical morning before heading towards the Kenyan border. I had about 5 days until my flight. The distance wasn't far, but I wanted a few days of rest before flying out of Nairobi.
Lots of great tracks in this northern part of Tanzania.
This area is popular for the mining of ruby stones.
Riding towards Mount Longido, which climbs above the surrounding bush to 2637m.
Last camp in Africa, about 70km from Nairobi. The land starts to get quite densely populated, so this was more of a stealth camp than others. I prefer not to wild camp in areas which are densely populated. When I do I almost always find someone to ask permission to camp.
And relax. I returned to the same Guest House I had already stayed in twice before. My bike box was stored here. Clean, cheap, quiet, and close to the airport.
Here’s a short view of those weeks on the road. If you’ve enjoyed this content and would like to show appreciation by way of a virtual drink, here’s the link again. Thanks for reading.
