And the winner goes to... A year in reflection
I started the year learning to surf in Morocco and I'm finishing it drinking a lot of beer in Cameroon. Between then I've crossed 14 countries in Africa and cycled about 12,000km, collecting more than a few stories along the way. Here is a review of some of the highlights, lowlights and other interesting observations from my year on the road. If there is a category you'd like to add please post a comment to let me know. Happy New year.
Most atmospheric place: Harper, Liberia. A town full of war-ravaged buildings, surrounded by beautiful palm-fringed beaches.
Country I'd most like to return to: Nigeria. Forget the bad reputation, Nigeria is the India of Africa in my opinion. Big, overpopulated, ethnically rich, full of positive energy and immensely rewarding for those adventurous enough to explore it.
Worst day of the year: March 13th. I was mugged by 5 men in Dakar, Senegal, who slashed my left wrist and left foot with a machete as I attempted and failed to prevent them taking off with my camera and day-sack. Just in case you're wondering - the foot slash was minor and I was back on my feet walking fine within a week. The injury to my wrist was much more serious as 4 tendons were severed and required stitching together. There remains a slight stiffness, but no real discomfort. I probably ought to have done and ought to continue doing more physiotherapy as I don't have the same degree of flexibility in my left wrist as I do in my right, but all things considered recovery has been good. No point in adding the category - 'Place I'd least like to return to'.
Most popular day of traffic to this website: The day I posted an account of the above. Almost 2500 hits, which goes to show bad news travels quickly.
Worst roads: Leaving Nigeria and entering Cameroon. Steep, full of large rocks, deep gullies and impossible to cycle on.
Most hassle at a border: Crossing from Guinea-Sierra Leone. Immigration told me the border was closed until the country decided on its new president. I'd have been there for months if that was true. I crossed without paying the bribe.
Most beautiful women: Senegal and Ivory Coast. Pity my French is poor.
Least 'African' feeling place: Abuja, Nigeria. Clean, well-paved roads and a sterile, but relaxing oasis from the 'real' Africa.
Easiest place to get a beer: Cameroon, just don't assume it will be cold.
Hardest place to get a beer: Mauritania, unless you're lucky enough to be staying with ex-pats who like drinking because there is very little else to do when you live in a city like Nouakchott.
Best place to drink a beer: Overlooking Bakau fish market in The Gambia. Dozens of boats off-loading the day's catch, which is then sorted and sold beneath you.
Friendliest country to spend time in: Ghana, followed or possibly matched by Sierra Leone. Kindest, most (on the whole) non-aggressive and generally sincerest people in west Africa.
Country with the best beaches: Sierra Leone. Unspoilt, palm-fringed and clean white sands.
Most generous donation to Against Malaria Foundation: £1450 from American International School of Nouakchott, Mauritania. A great effort for a small school.
Best 'African' food: Senegal and Ivory Coast: Fresh baguettes, good grilled fish/meat and a francophone mentality that generally dictates 'quality' to be more important than quantity.
Worst 'African' food: Sierra Leone and Liberia. The nation seems to survive on rice and cassava leaf with a bit of fish or unidentifiable bush meat thrown in if you're lucky.
Best 'on the road' refreshment/snack: Fresh coconuts along the coast in any country.
Biggest disappointment: Finding that the jungles of Sierra Leone, Liberia and Ivory Coast have mostly been destroyed.
Most frequently asked question: Are you not afraid of wild animals?
Most colourfully dressed people: Togo and Benin. Everyone wears bright wax-cotton cloth
.Best sleeping place: One of many nights out in the Sahara under the stars.
Worst sleeping place: In an abandoned building in the Sahara full of dry human excrement. I was trying to hide from the wind with little success.
Biggest relief: Finding my passport two days after leaving it in a room I stayed in within The Gambia.
Most historically interesting/moving place: Slave Castles of Ghana, particularly at Cape Coast and Elmina. Shame on my ancestors and all other European powers in Africa.
Most used/valued piece of kit: My trustworthy Tilley hat
Least used piece of kit: My Solar charger. I'm rarely away from a power source for long enough to warrant using it, although it's lightweight and packs easily so I'm holding onto it just in case.
Best new piece of kit: X-mini speaker. Sound beyond size as the logo says and it fits snugly between bottle cage and my handlebar bag. Nothing like a bit of Led Zeppelin blasting out on a tough road.
Best books read: The Poisonwood Bible: Mary Kingsolver, French Lessons in west Africa: Peter Biddlecombe and The Grass is Singing: Doris Lessing.
Most common on-the-road thought: Do I write a book when I finish this journey? There are a few stories/characters I don't write about here.
