"Looking is free”. “What you looking for?” “Just a minute in my shop”. You don't have to be in the red-walled medina of Marrakesh long before a shopkeeper or tout will distract your attention. After a week exploring the colourful souks and dodging the carnival of characters that befriend green-eyed newcomers to this city (snakecharmers, castanet-clanging water sellers, turbaned potion-sellers) Marrakesh has defeated me. In a good way that is. I'm jumping back on the bike tomorrow and heading into the High Atlas – last real mountains for a long time.