Thailasia Tour Part 5: Towards the coast. Mae Sot - Prachuap Khiri Khan
This post starts from the city of Mae Sot, which was once a major entry and exit point between Thailand and neighboring Myanmar. Today, much of its population is made up of migrants and refugees from across the border. While international headlines continue to focus on events in the Middle East, the plight of millions displaced from Myanmar over the past decade—especially since the 2021 military coup—has received far less attention. Thailand alone is home to over 3 million people from Myanmar, many of whom have fled conflict and persecution in recent years.
While I had been cycling close to the Myanmar border for the previous few weeks—passing through a number of police checkpoints—there was never any real sense of danger. Komoot showed various small, mountainous routes that could have taken me towards, and even across, the border, but crossing would likely have been forbidden.
The original plan was to continue riding south from Mae Sot, but after tracing the only road through what looked like dense jungle, and realising it might require crossing into Myanmar just to return to Thailand, I decided instead to head east. One more climb followed, then a descent towards the Ping River, before turning south onto flatter roads in the direction of the coast—more specifically, the Gulf of Thailand.
This post covers Days 30–39 on the map below. As always, the photos appear in chronological order.
Back in the tent. A clear night in the forested hills between Mae Sot and the town of Tak, where I was headed. While camping wild in some of these wooded areas was peaceful, on several occasions in Thailand I realised (usually later in the night, such as on this occasion) that my tent was pitched close to termites. When hundreds/thousands of termites start moving under a tent, it creates a lot of vibration and heat. Without moving the tent I could easily imagine the groundsheet and tent floor being eaten through.
This was a particularly rough and remote track, which had not been used in years. The alternative was a large highway, which I eventually joined before arriving in the town of Tak.
Check-in, Tak. The usual deal for £10.
Because one plate is often never enough.
Exploring the ancient city of Kamphaeng Phet, a short distance south from Tak. A beautiful and peaceful site.
Many of these larger temple complexes are too big to walk around, so having two wheels to explore is the ideal way.
Back on the road and it’s all flat cycling from now on as I ride south towards the Gulf of Thailand.
With higher temperatures, it’s fortunate that there were some lakes en—route. This one, Khlong Dam, was the first of several I camped beside.
Cooking in the tent. Mosquitoes were often out in force after sunset. The advantage of using a small gas stove and pot is that I could cook inside the tent, away from getting bitten. My evening meals when camping in Thailand didn’t extend much beyond packet noodles, mixed with some tinned fish or eggs.
Camping beside Khlong Dam.
The following day, Day 35, I spotted an island on a lake as a potential place to camp from google satellite - connected to the mainland by a bridge or causeway. When I arrived the causeway leading to the island was under water.
After a bit of cycling around I found a decent spot by the water’s edge.
A peaceful night and morning, although I could hear movement underneath my tent again.
Someone had found a home for the night under my tent.
Together with this one.
A lot of land in flat agricultural areas is planted with sugar-cane. Temperatures now above 30° so I reverted to wearing a sleeveless top for the rest of the trip.
Not the kind of weather for such meaty soups, consisting of offal. While food in Thailand is diverse, fresh and delicious, it definitely wouldn’t be the easiest country to cycle through if you were vegetarian/vegan.
I was happy my rear panniers were half full, which always ensured there was space to carry excess food - often fruit.
Bridge over the River Kwai. A famous landmark in the city of Kanchanaburi, and one many people visit in Thailand. I arrived a few days before the end of the year - looking forward to a few days rest.
Visa extension done. On arrival in Thailand I received a 60-day free stay. Initially I thought this would be sufficient for my time in Thailand, but soon realised I would need an extension. A 30-day extension was provided with a trip to the immigration office in Kanchanaburi, where proof of onward travel was necessary (I already had a flight booked out of Malaysia) as well as a1900 baht (£45) fee for the extension.
Meeting Rob again. I first met UK Rob back in Uganda in 2011, who was also cycling on the continent. Fast forward 14+ years and I received a message from another cyclist friend in Thailand that Rob was staying in a guest house in Bangkok. I managed to get his number and arrange meeting up a short distance away in Kanchanaburi. He travelled out, by train, conveniently bringing his folded bike.
Back in 2011 - somewhere in south western Uganda. I wrote about meeting Rob on my Big Africa Cycle.
Kanchanaburi for a few nights over New Year - beers were drunk.
Riding out of Kanchanaburi on New Years Day.
I consumed these daily in Thailand. Available at all 7-11’s for about £0.10 a sachet.
And more of them now I was riding in hotter temps.
Another dam camp. Mae Prachan dam on Day 36.
With the usual morning view.
A rare bike-lane as I pushed on south close to the coast. Rather than ride straight to the sea I decided to ride inland and join the Gulf of Thailand a little further south, thus avoiding what I suspected would be busy roads around the coastal city of Hua Hin.
Which was a good decision as it meant more quiet camps, like this one beside Pranburi dam.
Didn’t see any, and didn’t know there were wild elephants.
Colourful fishing boats as I reach the Gulf of Thailand on Day 39.
My route now would just be south, as close to the coast as possible for the next several hundred kilometres towards the Malaysian border.
Coastline near Prachuap Khiri Khan.
With a wonderful campsite for £2.50 per night in Khao Ta Mong National Park.
View from the campsite.
Very happy I packed the trail running shoes. I ran 3-4 times per week during my time on the road in Thailand. Just 5-10 km to keep the running legs active, and fortunately staying clear of any injury.
Finally time to use these.
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